Going to England (again)

We just made arrangements today for me to fly over to England in September with our Lead Brewer, Jeremy Moynier, to brew a beer with an English brewer for the Wetherspoons pub chain. Wetherspoons puts on an International Real Ale Festival twice each year, and has a program where they invite brewers from other countries to brew beer at select English breweries. All the beer is made as Real Ale, meaning it all goes in casks, is clarified to brilliant crystal clear without filtration, and is naturally carbonated, and served from the cask using a beer engine.

Stone Brewing Co. has participated in this program with Wetherspoons twice over the years. In fact, we were the first American Brewery to participate, back in early 2008, when Stone Brewing Co. cofounder, President and original Brewmaster Steve Wagner and I got to brew at the Shepherd-Neame Brewery in Faversham, which bills itself as the oldest operating brewery in England. That beer we brewed with the great brewers at Shepherd-Neame was an IPA, weoriginally wanted to do an 8-9% abv Double IPA, but the Wetherspoons folks balked at that because it was too high in alcohol. After some negotiation, we settled on a 7% West Coast style IPA.

Steve wanted to call this beer “California Mild” which still makes me laugh, but what I really found interesting is that when Stone cofounder and CEO Greg Koch and I went back for the release party at one of the Wetherspoons Pubs in London, there were many people, including some fellow brewers, who would not even try the beer because it was “so strong”. There were some I couldn’t persuade to even try a small taste. I learned then a bit of the real differences between the beer scene in England vs. the beer scene here in the United States, especially with regards to alcoholcontent. In the United States, many craft beer drinkers look for high alcohol, and are happy sticking to 1-2 pints over the course of an evening. In England, many of the beer drinkers want 3-4%, and that’s it. Anything above that teeters dangerously close to the dreaded “binge drinking” label. The pub drinking culture in England is totally different, and revolves around drinking many pints among friends, so the lower alcohol is an important consideration. And to be fair, there were many brewers, including David Holmes from Shepherd-Neame and John Bryan from Oakham Ales in Peterborough who really enjoyed our beer as well. It was during this trip that I gained a very deep appreciation for traditional English brewing and for good Real Ale. It was a fantastic experience, and I was really glad to be able to help set up some of my craft brewer friends to participate in the same program over the past few years. One of the nicest surprises that came out of this particular trip was that for a short while, the beer we brewed had the highest ranking of all British Beers on ratebeer.

Britain Best Beers


Wetherspoons Real Ale Festival Pump Clips

Mitch and former Team Stone Member, Collaborator and good friend Toshi Ishii pouring their beers. I’m not caring that some people won’t try it- more for me!

The second opportunity for Stone came in the fall of 2011, when I traveled solo to the Wadworth Brewery in Devizes, near Bath and Bristol. This time we brewed something a little more British, at least in terms of alcohol content. We brewed a Session IPA, loosely inspired by the collaboration brew we had made with San Diego homebrewer extraordinaire Kelsey McNair and Colby Chandler from Ballast Point. That was a very fun experiences-Devizes is a wonderfully quaint village, and there was literally a Wadworth pub on every corner of the main street through town. The brewers there treated me wonderfully, and I got some great sightseeing in.

The Wadworth Brewery, a great example of a traditional English brewer.

The Wadworth Brewery, a great example of a traditional English brewer.

Pump Clip for the San Diego Session IPA

Pump Clip for the San Diego Session IPA

So this time, we are brewing at Adnams in Southwold, on the East coast of England, with Fergus Fitzgerald, a brewer Steve and I met a few years ago with Martyn Cornell during one of our research trips for the IPA book. Fergus brews some great beers, and has a love for American hop varieties, so we are looking forward to putting this beer together with him. And congratulations are in order, as Fergus was just named Brewer Of The Year

I am looking forward to spending a little time in London, visiting some of my favorite pubs, including The Rake, The White Horse, Churchill Arms, Craft Brewing Company, and wherever else our travels take us. We hope to visit some London brewers as well-will keep you posted on that.

8 thoughts on “Going to England (again)

  1. Terry Guriel

    Howdy Mitch. Sounds like great fun brewing Real Ale over in jolly
    ol’ England. Ever thought about leading a Brewers Tour of the great pubs you have visited?

  2. Katjia Mirri

    Lovely report, truly!
    I feel like I have to move to England to touch everything with hand (or maybe, tongue).
    I do not know if you are aware that “ishii” in japanese language means “tasty” as far as I can remember.
    Omen nomen , I mean, a great name for someone who deals with beer 😀

  3. steve

    hi mitch, stan alerted me to your blog, great stuff so far!

    Glad to hear you’re brewing again this time around, missed out on the IPA but the session ale was pretty tasty

    i think another big factor for people in UK being strength-averse in general is that stronger beers cost more, being taxed by strength, which doesn’t occur in the US. In fact there’s now even an additional tax (higher strength beer duty) for anything above 7.5%. There are however plenty more experimental breweries than 2008 who are not averse to brewing beers stronger, which means greater choice to the drinker. This has also corresponded to a greater number of bars offering third pints (first pioneered by wetherspoon, then some camra branches) allowing people to drink less of stronger beers (and thus try more beers in a session!)

    Look forward to his years beer and hope to pick up your book soon too; boak and bailey did a very favourable review of it.http://boakandbailey.com/2013/07/book-review-ipa-by-mitch-steele/

  4. JOHNG

    The 2008 ipa was a cracker.We laughed at the time as you must have used a years supply of Shep Neames hops in that beer. More of the same please.

    1. mitchsteele Post author

      Stewart and David at Shepherd-Neame were a bit skeptical of using as many hops as we wanted to, but to their credit, they and their whole brewing team embraced the recipe and the challenge!

  5. jimmyo


    While in London, I’d say this article is pretty spot on for some of the best new breweries. Kernel is hands down excellent. They continually rotate the hops on their pale ale & IPAs, their low ABV (2.7-3.3) table beer has excellent flavor and they do some mean stouts. Brew by Numbers & Partizan both started in the past year and also making great beer. All three can be visited within a 15 minute walk in SE London.


    1. mitchsteele Post author

      Great article, thank you. Trips to Kernel and Beavertown are in the works. I met Logan from Beavertown at the craft brewers conference this past spring, his beers are great. And Kernel’s beers I’ve had a few times, and always really liked them.

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